Pumpkatty 2015 design. I’m preparing early.
First pumpkatty design ever is now new pumpkatty’s familiar.
For anyone who wants a free pose-able human reference for drawing
The other day I came across this awesome program by accident (I don’t even remember what I was actually searching for, but on the several times I’ve looked for a program like this I’ve had no luck). It’s cool enough that I wanted to share it.
It’s called DesignDoll (website here) and it’s a program that lets you shape and pose a human figure pretty much however you want.
There’s a trial version with no expiration date that can be downloaded for free, as well as the “pro license” version priced at $79. I’ve only had the free version for two days so far, so I’m not an expert and I haven’t figured out all of the features yet, but I’ve got the basics down. The website’s tutorials are actually pretty helpful for the basics, as well.
Here’s the page for download, which has a list of the
features available in both versions.
There are three features the free version doesn’t have:
- Can’t save OBJ files for export
- Can’t download models and poses from Doll Atelier (a sharing site for users; note that the site is in Japanese, though)
- It can’t load saved files
The third one means that if you make a pose, save it, and close the program, you can’t load that pose/modified model later. You have to start with the default model. I found that out when I tried to load a file from the day before (this is why reading is important…). Whether saving your modifications (and downloading models and poses) is worth $80 is up to you.
But, the default model is pretty nice and honestly if all you’re looking for is a basic pose reference it should work fairly well as it is. Here’s what it looks like:
There’s a pose tag that lets you drag each joint into place and rotate body parts. The torso and waist can be twisted separately, and it seems like everything pretty much follows the range of movement it would have on an actual human.
Even the entire shoulder area is actually movable along with the joint! See, like how the scapular area of the back raises with the arm:
The morphing tag is one of the coolest features, in my opinion. It lets you pick and choose from a library of pre-set forms for the head, chest, arms, legs, etc. It has some more realistic body shapes in addition to more anime-like ones. Don’t like the options there? Mix a few to get what you want! Each option has a slider that lets you blend as much or as little as you want into the design.
So you, too, can create beautiful things like kawaii Muscle-chan!!
The scale tag lets you mess with the proportions and connection points of different joints. This feature combined with the morphing feature not only allows more body shape variations, but it also means that you can do things like make a more digitigrade model if you want. (The feet only have an ankle joint, but for regular human poses that’s all that you really need, so whatever.)
Or you can make a weird chubby alien-like thing with giant hands and balloon tiddies if that’s more your thing.
The ability to pose hands to the extent it allows is far more than I could have hoped for from a free program. Seriously, you can change the position of each finger joint individually, as well as how spread out the fingers are from each other. Each crease on the diagram below is a point of movement, and the circles are for spread between fingers.
And to make it a bit more convenient, there’s a library of pre-set hand poses you can pick from as well, and then change the pose from that if you like.
In both versions, you can also import OBJ files from other places for the model to hold, like if you wanted to have them hold a sword or something.
Basically, this program is awesome and free and you should totally check it out if you want a good program for creating pose references.
art friends!
I LOVE this program!
parts-and-services!!!!!!
Hey, this post may contain adult content, so we’ve hidden it from public view.
- Colors from Adobe Color CC (Kuler)
- Respect artist rules
- Request via ask box
- 10/26 Updated with more colors
quick tips for artists drawing characters with handguns
generalized handgun anatomy:
pistols and revolvers are not any different in how you handle them safely but here’s what they look like
- finger is off the trigger unless you’re ready to shoot. it should not touch the trigger guard or the trigger. It should be up on the frame (it can be touching the slide)
- the strong hand (the one you write with or prefer to write with) holds the gun by the grip and your weak hand (the free hand) covers the weak one like so:
- appropriate position of the fingers and thumbs from above:
- watch out for slide bite, which is when the slide cuts your fingers or your hand. This video illustrates a woman getting slide bite from her weapon because she crossed her thumbs : tw for blood
WHERE TO PULL A TRIGGER FOR ACCURACY:
trained gunners will not point the gun at anything they don’t plan to destroy. muzzles are pointed down (but not at the feet)
Anonymous asked:
I really love your art and the way you color so I'd just like to ask if you are still using the fire alpaca program like you before? i'm still quite new to it and I just wanted some advice on alternative art programs besides the usual sai/ps. Like how do you get the painterly type of feel ( I'm sorry for bombarding you with all these questions! ) that is in your art or how do u add patterns and textures (again if you don't feel comfortable answering these it's fine as well ) ! Thank you :D
amphiura-deactivated20190428 answered:
Hi! No, not anymore; I switched over to MediBang Paint (cloudalpaca) a while ago, but they’re very similar since they’re made by the same people.
The main difference is the materials panel which is what lets me add patterns/textures/screentones and stuff like that:
the tiles are repeating, while the tones are single “sheets”. the program comes with a bunch of them (you get a lot more by making an account (free) which also has some other features) and you can upload your own into the program. transparent textures is a site I know has a lot of patterns and textures.
to add textures you just have to drag it onto the canvas, then you can move it around, rotate, zoom using the options it gives you, then push OK. if you only want to cover a certain area, just select w either the magic wand / lasso / select pen / etc, and drag inside there:
in terms of painterly feel.. um… i tend to merge things into single layers as I go along and work on top of those over and over so I dont have any past stuff I can use as examples but in terms of colouring, I dont generally do line art and use my sketches instead, and usually put more attention in the hair, then keep everything else kinda simple? (it’s a style derived from laziness…. ha… ;;;)
I like this sketch of minato’s head from earlier, so I’ll colour it as example:
sometimes they’re clean, sometimes they’re super messy, but in the end it doesnt make a huge difference (I consider this very clean)
i use square bitmap brushes to sketch/colour:
sometimes I might use the mapping pen to sketch on smaller canvases or for really exact details
(I use a lot of quick strokes, and for blending stuff like blushes a lot of quick tapping) (there are other types of brushes like watercolour though if that’s more your thing)
next, I colour in the base colours on a layer underneath. I try to keep inside the sketch, but i dont care if it’s messy inside nor is it a big deal if it bleeds the sketch. Some quick, blocky shading on the skin/clothes. if there are a lot of colours or I want to even it out a bit, I might add an overlay/screen/etc layer on top now, or wait until later to do so.
after that, I make a new layer over the sketch and colour in the hair w the shade colour entirely, then I shade that with a darker colour. on a new layer, I colour with the base colour. then I merge these, the sketch, and the base and fix some of the shading and lines. I pick colours that show up when I added the base as lighter shading. Sometimes I add highlights, sometimes I dont. then I add some quick blocks of the base to hide the shading and make it, I guess, less shiny?
it looks like a lot of steps, but this is usually done pretty sketchily, with some attention really only being given in 4/5, maybe 6
everything else is just blending the shading with quick strokes, overlapping the base and shade, and cleaning up the sketch. usually done on one layer.
the sketchy/blocky -ness is probably what gives it a “painterly” feel? idk
I hope these answer your questions! (❁´▽`❁)*✲ﾟ*
by: numibata
You can print things at 150dpi but anything lower than that comes out pixellated.
300dpi is the minimum setting I use for drawing digital and printing from digital. The higher the pixels per inch the better the print is. It applies to scans too! Scan at 300dpi minimum.
Hope this helps!
Thanks very much for this corrected version!