sorry for any grammar mistakes
long time without a tutorial… I tried to explain my general process of working here, hope someone will find it useful :)
trying to make sense of these
fawns are pretty much doomed to be clumsy runners because they have no flat human feet or an extra pair of legs to support them, so both a human two-legged run and a gallop look sort of weird not to mention put a lot of strain on their legs
so, i conclude that fawns are probably only capable of moving quickly in a series of erratic gallop-y hops, which gives them a lot of manoeuvrability and is fair enough because they live in forests where there’s little room to run anyway
dizyre-repost asked:
First of, I must say. Big fan of your work. Just simply phenomenal. I learned how to draw a but in 2 seconds. I was wondering if u could do a few sketches of the boobs. In different angles (front). Any tips or tricks. Thanks for your time.
Thanks for the love. :)
As for quick tips on drawing breast, I won’t say I fully understand how to draw them too, but here’s my quick messy step by step way:
Draw the body first
The lines gives me a basic idea where the breasts should be.
Right after I establish where the beast should be setup, than I draw layout of the beast. Almost like a bra.
Than I draw the boobs.
Personally, I like drawing jiggly boobs, mainly because I don’t need to worry about the setup or outline, and I can have fun with the physics.
My best advice is too look up real model to get a better idea, buy a anime figure, or look up your favorite artist. I tend to look up Sunahara Wataru’s art for my breast refs.
Hey, this post may contain adult content, so we’ve hidden it from public view.
TEETH | BLOOD | DROOL
As promised, you fine freaks, here are some tutorials for how I draw teeth, blood and drool. My three favourite things to draw. ｡◕ ‿ ◕｡
I hope that someone finds this helpful(I’ve written these thinking that those reading know a bit of basic photoshop), but if you have any questions then I’ll do my best to answer of course.
Visual development for a very lovely children’s book project I’ve been working on since the beginning of the year. I’ll have some more bits to share with you soon!
some brush settings of mine, apropos of nothing but archival purposes
mostly because i don’t
actually remember where i got these texture packs
HIIRAREFS: Basic and Intermidiate guide to colouring in
What better day to end the year then with a basic guide to colouring- This is for beginners or intermediate artists. Colouring is a big part to an art piece, whether you decide to use colours or not, that’s up to you, but for the most part, having some knowledge on appliance of colour will really help you out!
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ARTISTS WITH AN INSPIRING KNOWLEDGE OF COLOUR APPLICATION!
Please take the time to have a look at other artists work so that you ca research and get inspired!
- Gullacass: Uses brights, dulls and pastels to create brilliant guro, pop and macabre pieces| DA + TUMBLR
- TinyCalcium: Old friend of mine who explores brights and mustard colours and places them as a foundation for their work | TUMBLR
- BeastPop: Talented with opposing and Triwheel colours. Outstanding cell-shading, and knows how to flexibly bend colour form to their will in popart. | DA
- H0stel: Fantastic composition of light direction and applies colour to bodies based on ambient occlusion. | TUMBLR
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COLOUR SLANG:
I use some strange slang to express colour types and shades as well as groups. Although they may not be canonically correct, I will use these terms to describe colour palates to the best of my ability!
Analogous: Colours that are near or adjacent to each other on the colour wheel, EG: Red and Orange
Oppositional/complimentary: Colours that are opposed or opposite from each other on the colour wheel, EG: Cherry and Green
Triadic: Colours that form a triangle on the Colour wheel, EG: Cyan, Magenta and Yellow. These three colours when mixed together will make black.
Arrowtype/Quadcolour: Four colours, that generally form an arrow shape on the colour wheel.
Tetradic: Colours that form a rectangle or square in the colour wheel
Neons: The very brightest you can get a colour, be careful where you use them as they can look ugly together at the most. Try to use neons when you are adding bright glowing objects to your piece. Neons are great for highlights.
Brights: Slightly washed Neons. Appropriate if you have characters that are colourful.
Washed: Very washed brights with a hint of grey. These are also useful for colourful characters.
Pastels: Colour with white in them to make them seem light.
Baby Pastel: Pastel with even more white in them, good for subtle highlights.
Darks: Colour with black added to them. Used mostly for lineart.
Mustards: Colours with dark grey added to them
Earthen: Colours with brown added to them
Warm and Cool colours: Warm colours are colours that range fromMagenta to Yellow. Cool ones range from Lime to Fuchsia.
Straight tones: A greyscale palate. or a straight scale of one colour from black to it’s neon form.
Warm and cool tones: Warm tones are a greyscale mixed with warm colours and cool tones are greyscale mixed with cool colours.
Skintones: Warm washed or pastel colours generally used to colour in skin, but they don’t have to be warm at all! ( I will not show you a palate for this however)
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WHAT TO AVOID WHEN COLOURING:
beginner artists, tend to go ahead and start by colouring their line art with neon and mustard colours. Neons are not necessarily good for base colours unless the character has a glow.
I often see lazy attempts to shade, often a beginner artist with use an airbrush and use black and white to shade and highlight their piece. This is not very effective, and I’m sorry to say… It’s kind of gross as well. Try to avoid being lazy. If you have a piece that has bold black lines, avoid using soft shading and airbrushing at this point of time.
Black and white isn’t always the best option when colouring in your piece, but it also depends on the style you are trying to convey. If you plan on only using straight tones to colour in a piece, black and white is good.
A GOOD BASIC WAY TO COLOUR
For this basic tutorial I will show you a nice way to colour in a piece with bold lines. I will be using Minty’s Classic character as an example.
Begin with using brights that have been washed down a little and washed skin tones if your character is human based. Avoid using neons or mustards if you are able. If there is white on the character, such as the white on an eyeball or the teeth, consider using baby pastels. For Minty’s eyeballs I have used a baby pastel blue. I have chosen to use a darker and more washed version for her Irises.
With you foundation colours placed down, use a washed warm colour for the skin tone, such as a salmon. If the character’s hair or fur is warm coloured, use a pink or red orange to shade that as well. Use the cell shading technique. This may mean you will have to erase some of your shading so be sure to do this on another layer. For your baby pastels, you can use a regular pastel to shade it. For Minty’s eyes I have used pastel blue and lowered the opacity by a little.
For Highlights, I have chosen to use baby pastel yellow. I wanted the piece to be warm.
Applying a light airbrush over the top of the piece makes it feel a little softer. I have also applied the airbrush over the initial borders to create colour bleed, giving a very subtle reflective approach.
Colouring your line art layer, particularly if you have bold lines, can really make a piece look more interesting! I like to leave the overall outline black. You can gradient and bleed colour in your line art as well
Light tracing is a technique lots of artist’s use, where they run a sharp line of highlight next to line art to divide borders.
This looks a lot nicer than the black and white shading, doesn’t it!?
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This is a very very simple guide to applying colour to your piece! If This helped, please reblog and share this guide around!
If you have any questions or feedback, don’t be afraid to send me a message!
drawing fat bodies
i deleted the previous ask because my internet wasnt uploading the images correctly, here it is again.
i tend to draw fat bodies with most of the weight/fat being balanced in the stomach/upper thighs, thats kind of where it settles for me. dont be afraid of drawing stomachs that actually stick out!!
i think its good to remember theres a lot more flesh on fat bodies, and that flesh can accumulate in a lot of different ways. sometimes legs and arms can be very skinny and the stomach area is more fat. sometimes its evenly distributed and theres a lot of fat on the arms and legs.
thats it i guess? i think its also good to actually look at real life bodies and just.. look at how weight is distributed, because its always different.
